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Fragrance · The Journal

Secrets of Madurai Malli

Why one specific belt of red soil between Nilakottai and Sedapatti produces the most fragrant jasmine in India.

Every jasmine variety has its terroir. Madurai Malli — botanically Jasminum sambac — owes its uncanny depth of fragrance to a roughly 60-kilometre belt of red, free-draining soil between the villages of Nilakottai, Sedapatti, and Usilampatti.

The local growers will tell you it's the soil. Agricultural scientists will tell you it's the soil plus the diurnal temperature swing — cool nights, hot days — that concentrates the volatile oils that give Madurai Malli its sharper, sweeter top note.

Whatever the cause, the result has been GI-tagged since 2013. Real Madurai Malli is picked at 4 AM (the buds are tightest and most fragrant then), strung within hours, and on a train to Chennai, Bangalore, or even Singapore by mid-morning.

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